By Robert A. Mosher
TRACING THE'16 RISING: ONE MAN, ONE CAMERA, ON FOOT |
View Mallin's Column in a larger map |
The Irish Citizen Army was created in 1913 -- before the
Volunteers themselves -- by James Connolly and the Irish Transport and General
Workers Union as a special force to protect workers during the Dublin Lockout
that year. With its more political and socialist message and labor-related
motivations, the ICA was never going to be a large mass movement -- but it was
going to be a resolute one. They wore a uniform of similar cut to that which
the Volunteers would adopt, though of a darker green cloth, and they wore a
broad-brimmed slouch hat with the left brim pinned to the crown as did the
Boers during Britain’s recent war in South Africa. In Dublin, this hat was
called a “cronje” for Piet Cronje, one of the Boer commanders. The brim was
fastened in place by a metal pin in the shape of the red hand of Ulster.
1870/87 Vetterli-Vitali rifle |
Robert Mosher
being filmed at Liberty Hall |
Connolly orders Mallin to take his column across the River
Liffey, past Trinity College, to St. Stephen’s Green. There he is to deny use
of the roads surrounding the Green to the British army and to act as a link
between de Valera’s battalion to Mallin’s east (at Boland’s Bakery) and Thomas
McDonagh’s battalion to his west (Jacob’s Biscuit Factory). Mallin’s deputy
commander in this mission is one of the most singularly striking personages of
the Easter Rising -- the Anglo-Irish woman with the Polish name, Constance
Markievicz. The Countess was especially striking today in her tailored ICA
officer’s uniform crowned by a “cronje” cap topped with a flurry of green
ostrich feathers. She also carried a .38 calibre C-96 “broom-handle” Mauser
automatic pistol -- clearly she had no interest serving as a female “auxiliary”
as did many women with the Irish Volunteers.
Mauser automatic pistol |
Constant presence of rooftop snipers
At roughly 11:30 a.m., Mallin put his column in motion,
turning on to Eden Quay and marching toward central Dublin. As we follow in his
footsteps, we are heading along the quay into a part of Dublin that is heavily
populated by tourists today as it is most days. For this march, I’m being
followed by a videographer, Graham Dillon, and his crew. I wonder if the people
on the Dublin streets that Easter Monday took any more notice of the Irish
Citizen Army column than the modern denizens are taking of us.
Street traffic in 1916 would have been made up of mostly
pedestrians, electric trams, horse-drawn vehicles of all kinds, bicyclists, and
a mere handful of still rare motorized vehicles. The Easter Rising would be
mostly fought with muscle power, by men and horses. (And thanks to the tourists
and the racing industry in modern Ireland, you will still occasionally see
horse-drawn carriages and racing sulkies moving through the streets of Dublin.)
Mosher crossing the O’Connell Bridge. Photo by Cashel O'Toole |
Today, as we cross O’Connell Bridge, we can see to our left
down the river the Customs House and tucked up against it Liberty Hall -- where
Mallin formed his column and began his march. Upriver just a short way on the
right, we can see the Four Courts Building and beyond that in the distance is
the spire that is the Wellington Monument in Phoenix Park.
We pause on the bridge and remark at how close the various
sites of the battle are to each other -- easily within rifle range. Although
much of the combat over Easter Week took place at ranges at or below 100 to 200
feet, there was also the constant presence of rooftop snipers whose long range
marksmanship enabled a soldier at Trinity College to pick off Volunteers in the
General Post Office, or Volunteers in the Four Courts to engage army snipers at
Dublin Castle or in the bell tower at Christ Church Cathedral, both across the
River Liffey.
Mosher at Fusilier’s Arch,
note
indentations from bullet strikes.
Photo by Cashel O'Toole |
The gateway to the park here is marked by Fusiliers’ Arch,
also widely known in 1916 as “Traitors’ Gate,” which commemorates the English
war in South Africa against the Boers. One of the Volunteers’ commanders in
this Rising, John McBride, was a veteran of that war in which he commanded an
Irish Brigade that fought against the British in South Africa. In 1916, he was
second in command to Thomas McDonagh at Jacobs’ Biscuit Factory to the
immediate west. The arch and surrounding gateway still bear scars from the
rifle and machine gun fire of the 1916 battle here.
Shot dead -- 28-year-old constable Michael Lahiff
St. Stephen’s Green takes its name from St. Stephen’s Church
and Leper Hospital that stood on Mercer Street, just to the west, from the 13th
to the 17th centuries. In 1916, that site is occupied by Mercer Hospital, built
in 1734, and still active today. In 1916, it would treat numerous casualties
from all sides. The rectangular Green
covers 22 acres (89,000 sq. meters) and has a series of connected ponds running
along its longest northeastern side. The Green has a gate at each of its four
corners.
St. Stephen's Green monument to
Countess Markievicz.
Photo by Robert A. Mosher |
Mallin’s column entered the Green in face of little
opposition, save that the attempt of a single
unarmed constable, 28-year-old Michael Lahiff, from the Dublin
Metropolitan Police, to physically block the column at the Fusilier’s Arch.
While accounts disagree and are in some cases possibly overly lurid, he was
reportedly shot down by Markiewicz with her Mauser automatic. Ironically, both
Lahiff and the Countess would be interred at Glasnevin Cemetery.
The C-96 Mauser pistols were widely used in 1916 and would
continue to play a role throughout the War of Independence and the Irish Civil
War. Nicknamed “Peter the Painter,” perhaps because of the paint-brush like
rounded handgrip, their rate of fire and large magazines made them excellent
weapons for urban warfare. It is suspected that in some instances, their rapid
rate of fire persuaded British soldiers that the Irish had machine guns at some
points around Dublin, when in fact the only possible machine guns would have
been the 10 guns sent by the Germans, which, by Easter Monday, were rusting on
the sea bottom near Queenstown.
The Shelbourne Hotel, occupied
by the British and used
to serious advantage
as their four machine guns and
almost 100
rifles dominated the Green.
Photo by Robert A. Mosher |
The management of today’s Shelbourne was quite responsive to
our interest in the role played by the hotel in the 1916 Rising and subsequent
history of Ireland, within the limits allowed of not disturbing their guests --
the hotel being fully booked meant that we would not be able to see that view
from the 4th floor windows. However, we were given a guided tour of the small
museum in the hotel, with the guest register dating from the beginning of the
Rising. (The army took full control of the hotel as soon as they arrived -- but
tried not to disturb the guests already there!)
Morning tea at the Shelbourne
The Shelbourne staff told of tea being served in the hotel
as planned, only to be disturbed by rifle fire from the Volunteers on the Green
shooting back at the British army. The only casualty among the guests was the
hat worn by one very English young lady who reportedly took the whole thing
calmly and with regret only for the damage to her bonnet. Nevertheless, the full
service of tea was reportedly suspended until after the Rising ended.
Bullet
marks on façade of Royal College of Surgeons. Photo by Cashel O'Toole |
Not being under fire, our small band walked more casually
around the perimeter of the Green to face the two-story Royal College of
Surgeons building. Our vantage point suffered only from the fact that a modern
LUAS tram station was between us and the sanctuary sought back in 1916 by the
ICA column. Graham did his best with the
video camera, as modern Dublin commuters ignored us and the tourists looked to
see if any of us were famous. We had, in fact, pretty much reached the end of
the St. Stephen’s Green story. Mallin, the Countess, and company holed up in
the Royal College of Surgeons building until word came on Sunday, April 30,
that Padraig Pearse had surrendered on behalf of what was now called the Irish
Republican Army.
Present day Dublin at peace,
the Ha Penny Bridge.
Photo by Cashel O'Toole |
By way of interesting coincidence, the building that was
“Davy’s Pub” in 1916 is up for sale, according to an advertisement in The Irish
Independent of May 2, 2012. The ad reads in part “The Portobello Hotel, 33
South Richmond Street, Dublin 2; Landmark City Hotel, Bar and Nightclub
Business. Prominent corner trading position overlooking the Grand Canal at
Portobello Bridge.” WG
No comments:
Post a Comment